I was lucky to visit the brand new (old) Cold War Museum today, and it was fantastic! I say new/old because there had always been a museum to Colonel Ryszard Kuklinski in the Old Town. However, today, the new Cold War Museum is open, the Kuklinski museum has closed and moved its exhibits over to the Cold War Museum. It’s uniquely positioned to tell the story of the Cold War, but from a Polish perspective.
Who is Kuklinski, you ask? I had the same question. Well, have you heard of Jack Strong? Me? Also no. After a visit to this museum, I can tell you that Kuklinski, alias Jack Strong, was one of the single most important CIA informants during the Cold War. And he was Polish.
In 1972, then a member of the Polish People’s Army, Kuklinski sent a letter to the American Embassy in Bonn, and requested a secret meeting, identifying himself only as an officer from a communist country. According to our museum guide, Kuklinski passed over 35,000 documents to the CIA. Kuklinski, who was present during the Warsaw Pact signing, felt compelled to protect his homeland, Poland, from nuclear annihilation.
So, what is the Warsaw Pact? I swear I learned this in high school. But for those of you who also forgot, the Warsaw Pact was established in 1955 and was basically the response of the USSR to NATO…a collection of soviet controlled or allied states (Albania, Bulgaria, Czechoslovakia, East Germany, Poland, Romania, Hungary) and the USSR. And it had nothing to do with the will of the Polish people….it just happened to be signed in Warsaw, which gave it its name. Our guide said it should have been called the Moscow Pact. At this time Poland was completely controlled by the USSR. The “Polish People’s Army” was under the full command of the Marshal of the Soviet Union.
Kuklinski feared Soviet aggression would lead to WW3, and Poland would be bombed along the way as the USSR moved west, attempting to further build its empire. And he had the plans and maps to prove it, which he smuggled over to the CIA. Today we saw large replicas of the maps, so take a look at these photos…those large red circles across the map show the proposed movement of USSR offensive from east to west….and then zoomed in, it shows where bombs would be dropped. (See the little red bombs?) Kuklinski passed along important weapons information, and storage locations, as well. The USSR seemed to be planning an offensive, aimed at expanding its empire into the west. How many times in history has this happened? What else is new?
When Kuklinski knew he had been found out, the CIA helped he and his family escape to the USA, which was just prior to martial law being imposed in Poland in 1981. While he lived under protection in the United States, later his adult sons died in separate mysterious accidents, both within 6 months of each other.
According to a few articles I read, some in Poland still believe Kuklinski was a traitor. Some think he may have been a double agent. He was sentenced to death in 1984, and this was only commuted to 25 years in prison after the fall of communism. Finally in 1997, all charges were dropped.
It was really a fascinating story about a time period I feel I lived through, but I’m now looking at it from a totally different perspective. And I’ll leave you with this parting thought. If Russia is successful in Ukraine, what’s next? Poland? Lithuania? Finland? Think Putin will stop after Ukraine? Then I’ve got a bridge to sell you in Brooklyn.
The second half of our trip to Israel was spent driving the country. Israel is small, and it’s easy to get around, so first we drove to the Dead Sea for the next couple days. I think the kids enjoyed that….but quickly learned – don’t even get a drop in your eye, or you’ll be sorry. We toured the nearby Masada, https://en.parks.org.il/reserve-park/masada-national-park/, a plateau in the middle of the desert, where King Herod built a palace and fortress. You can hike up (about an hour), or take a cable car ride up the mountain. We opted for the cable car, which we shared with a Canadian film crew, there filming a documentary about a young boy who returns to this area in search of his heritage. Next, we visited Qumran https://en.parks.org.il/reserve-park/qumran-park/, where it is said the Dead Sea scrolls were found. After nearly losing the kids to lack of interest, probably due to lack of food, we found a café nearby – cafeteria style – and it was exactly what we needed for the late lunch. Luckily, we arrived before two massive tour buses. We purposely built in an extra day to just to smell the roses, and drove a little bit to see the Jordan River, and on the way back, stopped at a Dead Sea swimming area/beach. See the wooden sign from 2002 on the lifeguard stand and photo marking where the sea used to reach, as proof the Dead Sea is, in fact, shrinking.
Our drive north from the Dead Sea area dramatically changed from mountainous desert to lush green hills and valleys. We saw lots of sheep, goats, and horses, stopped for the Israeli version of canned coffee, and eventually reached the Sea of Galilee.
After finding Capernaum strangely closed in the middle of the day, we headed to the Church of the Beatitudes https://beatitudes.church/, and ran into a US Congressional delegation, and our own Congresswoman from Indiana. Maybe that is why Capernaum was closed? Not certain. The church is beautiful and in a very scenic setting atop of a hill.
We continued on, and arrived in Acre in time to see the sunset, which was beautiful, and hear the serene sound of the call to prayer coming from a nearby mosque. The next day, we visited Caesarea National Park https://en.parks.org.il/reserve-park/caesarea-national-park/, which first was settled in the 4th century BC. It was expanded significantly under King Herod, when it became an important Roman port. In addition to large break walls to secure the harbor, Herod had built market stalls, baths, storerooms, temples, a theater. It became the largest artificial port of its time. Caesarea was an important site for early Christians. The Apostle Paul spent time there, and the site remained largely Christian until the crusades. We ended up with lunch there in a little Italian café, and besides the ridiculous wind, it was great visit.
On our way back to Tel Aviv, we stopped in Haifa to see the Bahai World Centre https://ganbahai.org.il/, quite literally built into a hill, and then continued toward Tel Aviv, stopping in Herzliya for our final stop, about 30 minutes north of Tel Aviv. We chose to stay here, as it’s a little less busy, and a little more affordable, but still easy to get into the city. We ended our time in Israel with a drive through the ancient city of Jaffa (Yafo), founded by the Canaanites, and I’d need about two more pages to go through a complete list of who controlled Jaffa from ancient history until today, so I’ll link a nice recap of it here from Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/place/Tel-Aviv-Yafo/History
In sum, all of it = fascinating! This trip was truly transformational. And I think that is why we travel….it changes the way you see the world and the people in it. You will wake up months, even years later, reflecting back on why it is you thought something that you thought….and how changed your perspective is today because of it.
Beware of CamelsTank Museumterrain near Dead SeaFloating alongview of Dead SeaCable car to MasadaAtop MasadaMasadaa Masada mosaicDead Sea at duskLandscape beginning to changeThis lifeguard stand is unusable due to current distance from shoreFormer lifeguard stand, as proof sea is shrinkinga wooden boat on the Sea of GalileeThe Jordan RiverfarmlandThe Church of the BeatitudesThe Church of the BeatitudesSunset in AcreRunning into our Congresswoman. Of course, my spouse had a question.CasareaCaesareaCaesareaCaesareaBahai World CentreJaffa portdelicious restaurant in JaffaHerzliyaHerzliyaA little bit of Indiana in IsraelSea of Galileecanned coffeeCaesarea history lessonCeasareaCaesareaCaesarearoundabout artroundabout artJaffa
I’m not sure I can say anything more about Rome that has not already been said. So, instead, as a former university student there and someone who has been back several times, I’ll list my favorite places to go, and also include my specialized Google map I created a while back. This was so helpful, so that we could group our key sites by location, and didn’t waste time transiting, as Rome is busy, and sometimes challenging to get from place to place. Six days was perfect to show my family around, and still have some free time.
On museums. Some are just closed on Mondays, sometimes Tuesdays. So, please check out the hours before booking your “only day in Rome” on a Monday. Please do not go to Rome for only one day! Or, if you must, don’t try to tackle 8 museums. Just wander, eat, enjoy the physical beauty of it all! And see some sites next time. Book your museum tickets in advance! I cannot say this enough. We went during a busy time in April, and almost missed out on tickets to the Borghese Gallery, one of my favorites. Luckily for me, they had some 8pm Saturday night entry tickets….and maybe unlucklily for my teens, but c’est la vie.
On churches. All are free, unless you are trying to attend on a holiday.* (*The Pantheon, last I heard, now requires free tickets for Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, as of March 2023.) Most churches will REQUIRE you to cover your shoulders and sometimes your knees. I know, sometimes men get in with dress shorts while women do not. Please, do not argue with the staff, and just comply….this is a cultural thing to respect, plus, your life will be made easier! In the high heat of summer, I always carry a super small scarf for this purpose. Many churches today have a shall you can rent or borrow.
On tickets. Always buy tickets directly from the site. It is tricky nowadays….sometimes the first three sites to come up in a Google search are secondary sellers, who are always more expensive sometimes and don’t have good return policies. Sometimes they even try to sell you the “free” tickets to the site, which you could have just gotten on your own, and grabbed an audio guide for a nominal fee. I absolutely LOVE the Rick Steves Audio Europe walking tours! Check those out…we followed his guide of the Forum and it was perfect! If you use Google maps, then you will usually link into the official museum site. This is valid for trains as well. I can use Omio and pay 80 Euro, OR, I can go directly to Trenitalia, the official train app for Italy, and pay, 7 Euro. The choice is yours.
On cafes. Many have a counter and also a seating area. You pay one price for stand up, counter service at the bar. And you pay another price for sit-down-at-a-table service. So, my quick, morning coffee is usually consumed at the counter….while my leisurely afternoon coffee sometimes calls for sitting.
So, without further ado, here is my list of favorites. Once you click on the map, there are some notes by each site. Enjoy!
Pantheon
Colosseum
Saint Peter’s Square
Trevi Fountain
Campo de’ Fiori
Circus Maximus
Villa Borghese
Pascucci – my favorite frulatti
L’Archetto – my favorite pasta
Sant’ Eustachio Il Caffè – my favorite cappuccino
Porta Portese
Giolitti – my favorite gelato
Piazza Navona
Capitoline Museums
Vatican Museums (book WELL in advance)
Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore
Roman Forum
Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano
Via del Corso – wander this street to shop, or window shop (don’t forget about siesta)
Mouth of Truth
Parco Regionale dell’Appia Antica – giant beautiful park to walk through along an old Roman road
Piazza Navona Fountain of the 4 RiversPiazza Navona at nightPiazza Navona at night St Peters SquareSt Peters Basilica Pope FrancisLaocoon Group, The Vatican museumsOur tour guide (free with booked tour-direct from site) describes Sistine ceiling before going inVatican museums Cafe along Via del CorsoDrinking fountain demonstration (you will find them all over Rome)The best coffee The colosseum Mall along via del CorsoPiazza del PopoloThe Trevi Fountain The Roman ForumThe Roman ForumThe PantheonInside the PantheonThe Borghese Galley
I’m going to have to add Segovia, Spain to the most beautiful places I have ever been.
Located about 58 miles (93kms) outside of Madrid, but feeling a world away, sits beautiful Segovia. This lovely town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and has what is probably the best preserved Roman aqueduct in the world, which was still used as recently as the 1960s to bring water into the city. There are 166 arches made of granite blocks, and no mortar is used. It is believed to date to the 1st century.
Some of the most magnificent views were from the grounds of The Alcazar. Did you know? Alcazar gets its name from the Arabic “Al-Qasr” meaning palace or castle. In the 8th century much of the Iberian peninsula was conquered by Muslim forces entering Spain from Africa. What began as a fortress was later converted into a royal residence in the 13th century, and ended up serving 22 monarchs. In the 1500s the slate-colored spires were added by King Philip II, giving it that Hogwarts-like appearance. Definitely climb to the top! It’s simply breathtaking from all sides.
It only took us 27 minutes from Madrid by the fast train, or Avant, to reach Segovia. With that train, you arrive a bit outside the city, but its an easy (and beautiful!) bus ride to the historic center, on the bus #11 or 12, for two euro. Get off when you see the aqueduct. The return to Madrid, on the slow, or regional train, was an hour and 50 minutes, and that was from the more centrally location train station.
If you’re planning a trip anywhere near Madrid, don’t miss Segovia! Everyone agreed we loved this little place we had never heard of.
SegoviaView from the AlcazarRoman Aqueduct Segovia cathedral The AlcazarThe Avant
I was lucky enough to attend the “Polish Easter Traditions” culture club, run by the fabulous Kinga, and I learned so much about the holiday and how the Polish celebrate.
When Americans think of Easter baskets, most probably think of the Easter bunny delivering treats to little children. However, in Poland, the Easter basket takes on an entirely different meaning.
Here, baskets are decorated, and then filled with all kinds of foods and treats, and then once completed, they are brought to the church for a blessing on the Saturday before Easter. Sure enough, we drove by some churches and saw a priest outside blessing each person’s basket as they presented it. The contents are then consumed on Easter Sunday.
And about those delicious contents. We learned they typically contain the following items, and I’ve listed their symbolization in parentheses: bread (life), sausage (prosperity), decorated egg (birth), watercress (new life), babka cake (infinity), salt and /or horseradish (pain), a sugar lamb (lamb of God). The cute baskets have a little fabric lace or napkin placed in the bottom and over the sides for decoration. Another traditional cake on Easter is called Mazurek, and the bottom is like a pie crust or biscuit, and it’s filled with dulce la leche and decorated with nuts and dried fruits. We were also given a starter of Zurek soup, or “white borscht” as it’s referred to sometimes.
babkamazurekmazureksalt and horseradish in small dish
Egg decorating can get very elaborate here, and we saw some carved wooden eggs, and some beautiful blown eggs with intricate decorative painting. Traditionally eggs were colored by boiling them in onion skins, and I got a beautiful one here.
egg boiled in onion peel
Traditionally, Easter Sunday is called a “cold oven” day, meaning, cooking is not done. So, all the lovely foods from the basket are made the day before, and then eaten on Easter Sunday.
The last day of festivities is Easter Monday, or “Smigus-Dyngus,” which means Wet Monday, and dates back to the 14th Century. Traditionally the boys throw water on the girls, but today, its pretty much evolved into an all out water fight. I was wondering why I saw ALL the water guns available in the store just now. So, if you’re in Poland, watch your back on Monday, you may get soaked simply walking to the bus!
It was great fun to learn about these customs with a few friends, and come home with our very own Easter baskets, and goodies, too!
“Mom, why are you so obsessed with ‘Carol of the Bells.’” Put on your best teenage voice, and that’s what it sounded like this morning. I mean, I’ve always loved it, in all the different ways, from David Foster’s rendition, to more recently, Pentatonix, to the public performance from my daughter’s Middle School show choir, Class Act, a few years ago at the Chriskindlmarkt. But this year it took on a whole new meaning.
It all started with a short NPR piece on All Things Considered, posted here, 100 years ago, ‘Carol of the Bells’ came to America — from Ukraine. Interesting. So, today, in a morning coffee, I happened to be sitting with a group of women, five of whom are from Ukraine, so decided to play for them the David Foster version which was handy on my phone, and asked them to just tell me if they recognize it. Right away, there were yesses all around.
Take a moment to listen to the article above, but it indeed is derived from a Ukrainian folk song and called Shchedryk. And in speaking with them about it, they shared with me this version, posted below, which is just extraordinary. It is traditionally sung around the New Year. So, happy listening! And when you hear “Carol of the Bells” this year, I hope you think of Ukraine.
Wroclaw, Poland, (pronounced VROATS-Swav) has changed hands many times over the years, so I won’t try to summarize its complex history here, due to the length, but suffice it to say, it has been Czech, Prussian, Bohemian, Hungarian, Austrian, Polish, and German as recently as 1945, when it was referred to as Breslau. One of the first things that struck me, on our first visit one year ago, was the cute, “German” buildings. But, in a city that has had so many rulers and governments in the past 1000 years, I’m not sure it’s correct to call it “German.” To read more about its colorful history, click here. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wroclaw
Wroclaw main square
In more recent history (1980s), it was home to the underground anti-communist movement, Orange Alternative , and this is from where we get the adorable little dwarf statues, which populate the city in numbers upwards of 200. The dwarf began as a drawing that would pop up in unusual places, such as communist propaganda, announcements, etc. Today, it’s fun to try to find them all, and we made a good go of it during our last visit.
Today, my topic is all about markets, and what better way to kick off the season, then to visit the Wroclaw Christmas market, arguably the best one in Poland. From the adorable boot Gluhwein mugs, to the food, to the handmade local products, and even carousel and rollercoasters for kids, it was perfect way to get in the holiday spirit.
outdoor drink stationdrink lodge at openingmarket at nightgingerbread, a Polish specialtychimney cakehandmade Polish ornamentsgofry (waffle)sweet potato friesa great photo op
My top market tips are next. It gets busy as the day moves on, so we visited it at opening, in order to do the “must see” items, get the photos we wanted, etc. We then took a mid day break, and came out again in the evening. If you’re traveling to Wrocław, the main square has this great walkable courtyard and passageways, which run literally though the center buildings, making it much easier to move around when the crowds get heavy. Just ask this gal who took her dog. It’s also a nice spot to stop and eat. The mugs add 20PLN to your price of beverage, but save the receipt & return the mug, and you get it back; that way, you can only keep the number of mugs you want. Bring cash, as most of the drink vendors will not take cards.
market at openingmarket at opening from the lodgethe 2022 mugPerkins was a hit at the marketone of the internal alleyshandmade nativitySalt Market square-adjacent to main squaresoup vendor
Round out the weekend with a day trip to Boleslawiec, to explore the Polish hand make pottery at one of the many factories, and you’ve got yourself a fabulously fun weekend. I’ll list the ceramics factory we toured here. https://ceramiczna-przygoda.pl/en/
One last fun fact about Wrocław: if you take a walk over to cathedral island at dusk, you can see an actual lamp lighter, lighting each of the street lamps in that area by hand. Pretty fascinating! All in all, Wrocław is probably one of the most underrated cities in the EU. We had a fabulous time, and I’d highly recommend a visit.
It was a completely different time when we vacationed in Israel back in the middle of February 2022. There was no war in Ukraine. It had been a relatively peaceful time in Israel. To begin, it hurts my heart that we are experiencing so much violence in the world today. Juxtapose that against the feeling of privilege for even being able to travel the world as we are, it just makes for a strange several months. Visiting Israel was definitely a bucket list item for us, and it was truly the trip of a lifetime.
When we began, we almost didn’t begin due to a comedy of errors. I had been diagnosed with Covid a couple weeks prior, so I was isolating, so as to not infect the rest of the family, and set off the domino effect of 4-6 weeks of no travel. Israel had very strict Covid entry requirements at the time. Vaccines or recovery certificates required. Negative PCR tests required. Then, after landing in Tel Aviv, we were required to take an additional PCR test, and then isolate in our hotel until we received the results. In addition, while the entire family is vaccinated, my children’s vaccines had been a bit older than 6 months, due to varying country requirements at the date of vaccination, and subsequent approval of booster….by like, ONE day. Add to this a missed online check-in and fee, and we almost didn’t board. But lucky for us, we were on our way, and hysteria quickly shifted to excitement.
After 24 hours in Tel Aviv, we immediately drove to Jerusalem, as it was Friday mid-day, and we wanted to arrive before everything shut down for Shabbat (Friday sundown to Saturday sundown.). We managed to walk the Old City that evening, and prayers were happening at the Western Wall in the Jewish Quarter, the holiest of Jewish sites. It was an amazing sight! I have no photos, it just didn’t feel appropriate. But I’ll share one of the same wall, further down, so you can get an idea.
Beautiful Jerusalem sunsetOld CityJaffa gateOld city
I grew up protestant Christian, so going to church and Sunday school as a kid was the extent of my religious knowledge. But I’ve always wanted to visit the Holy Land. To place your feet on the same path that so many have before you, to see the same wall, the same garden, the same spot in the same church can only be described as monumental.
Walking the city at night was spectacular. The Old City is divided into 4 quarters: The Jewish Quarter, the Christian Quarter, the Muslim Quarter and the Armenian Quarter (see map). It was quiet at night, and the next morning, turned into a bustling little village. It’s difficult to comprehend that people still live in this old city. Built on top of hills, much of it is only accessible on foot, or with very small carts. It’s truly like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Little food stalls and tea shops convince you that you are walking around 200 years ago; then the next stall over might be selling cell phone accessories, and you’re instantly transported back to the present. The more I learn, the more questions I have, like, why Armenia? Well, I learned the Armenians were the first to declare Christianity the state religion, in 301. Pilgrims followed, and later in the 12th century the Armenians purchased St James’s Cathedral, which became their focal point of the area.
GethsemaneEntering Tomb of the Virgin
Our first stop was Gethsemane, in the Mount of Olives, believed to have been where Jesus was betrayed. The Church of All Nations stands adjacent to it. Approximately across the street is the Tomb of the Virgin, the place where the Virgin Mary is said to have laid to rest. Further up the hill you can see the beautiful silhouette of The Church of St Mary Magdalene, a Russian Orthodox Church. Next, we walked the outside of the old city wall, mainly because we really didn’t know the best way to get back into the Old City. There wasn’t an obvious entry on that side, and we later learned that it is known as the Golden Gate and has been sealed shut since the Middle Ages. So yeah, we weren’t getting in. 😉 According to Jewish tradition, the Messiah will enter Jerusalem through this gate, coming from the Mount of Olives. Christians believe this is the gate which Jesus used to enter Jerusalem.
Church of the Holy SepulchreAltar of the CrucifixionUp close- beneath the altarThe tomb
One of the most important stops today was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which was built on the spot where Christ is believed to have been crucified and buried. Emperor Constantine built the first basilica here in about 326, and then it was rebuilt by a Byzantine emperor around 1050, and later enlarged by crusaders. Today it is jointly maintained by the Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenian Apostolic faiths. We were able to enter the room where the tomb is believed to have been, and also see the Stone of Unction, where the anointing and wrapping of Christ’s body after his death was said to have taken place. Amazing!
Next stop, Bethlehem, which lies to Palestinian territory. Entry into Palestine is forbidden to Jews, and the highway is scattered with check points flanked with armed guards, but we were able to carefully arrange a private, round trip taxi ride, with a guide. I must admit I had no idea I would be going to Palestine 30 minutes prior. But the site of the Church of the Nativity is definitely on my must-visit list, as it’s the place that Christians believe to be the birthplace of Jesus. By the way, we learned it was very likely in a cave and not a stable, as we depict in the US. There’s a whole lot of stone and rock here!
Church of the NativityThe grotto of the Nativity, where Jesus is said to have been bornThe literal line dividing the Armenian side from the Orthodox sideThe mosque across the streetBanksy art
Directly across the street from the Church of the Nativity sits a mosque. To add to the strangeness of the day, we made a quick stop to see some Banksy artwork, a fake Starbucks, then it was back through the check point and on to Jerusalem.
Sahlab….a favorite drinkCity of DavidCity of DavidCity of David The tunnel!
The next day, we walked the City of David, which sits just outside the Old City (Jewish Quarter side), and that was very cool. We accidentally got lost in some type of shaft or tunnel, which was probably originally used for water. Ask me later about walking for 5-10 minutes up hill, hunched over in a shaft…fun times! This was not the Gihon Spring tunnel, because there was no water, but apparently, you can pay to do that one. Wear your waders and bring a flash light!
Al-Aqsa Compound (Dome of the Rock)Us, trying to get inThe Western Wall
The final day we spent roaming the Old City one more time, taking in a few more of the historical and religious sites. Another trip past the Western Wall, this time during the day. Temple Mount, extending out from the top of the Western Wall, the holiest place in Judaism, is the place where King Solomon built his temple. The Al-Aqsa Compound, or Dome of the Rock, sitting on top of Temple Mount, is significant for Muslims because it is connected to the creation of the world and the belief that the Night Journey of Muhammad began there. We tried to enter once and were denied. After a bit of research, we learn we can enter, but only in the morning, and we pass through heavy security. We cannot enter the mosque itself, because we are not Muslim. But the grounds are absolutely peaceful and beautiful. I’m so glad we had the chance to see this.
I guess what I was struck most by in Jerusalem was the very fact that so many religions are there, represented, on effectively the same spot. They pass by each other every day, the Muslim man who sells from his morning bread stand to the Israeli guards who are patrolling the area (who my son also posed with). They go about life, just as you and I do where we are. And its relatively peaceful. At least it was when we were there. Don’t get me wrong, I am not naïve, and know that too much violence exists in that part of the world, especially. But at the end of the day, the more I travel, the more I see the sameness in all of us. We are all just trying to get through the day, doing the things we have to do.
The Old City
Israel is a fascinating place, and it was just amazing! I promise that your view of your own religion, and others’ religions, will be forever changed by a visit to Jerusalem.
**As a reminder, this is my experience, as I learn, and have been told by guides, etc.; it is by no means a complete history. Next post will be Part 2: the rest of Israel.
I’m going to interrupt my regular travel writing to talk about an experience that most expats have faced: cooking and baking out of your comfort zone. There are many recipes that I just don’t make here. Not because I can’t, technically. But it’s because the availability of what I call “convenience” ingredients just doesn’t exist in the EU, and to try to re-create them, well basically is time prohibitive.
American recipe bloggers, and their forefathers (mothers!) have built an industry on being able to make items quick and conveniently, with minimal ingredients. However, around the world, good luck at finding most of them. Cake and brownie mixes? No. Instant pudding? Nope. Condensed soup? Think again. Cool Whip? Not on your life. The good news is my family and I are probably eating healthier than we ever have.
So here comes the story. The other day, dear son requests a pumpkin no-bake dessert. It’s not quite Autumn, but what the hell? Nothing says summer like no-bake, creamy desserts, and it will be easy, right? Well, if you’ve ever made one, it begins with words like Cool Whip, instant pudding, and cream cheese. No worries, I say. I know how to make proper whipped cream, and I can certainly find cream cheese somewhere.
Well, for a peek inside my ridiculous, multi hour experience, keep reading. First, I find one of the coveted cans of pumpkin that also don’t exist here, that is from the US, and I’ve been saving for a special time. Second, everything comes in these tiny containers. So, to buy enough cream cheese, I had to buy out the store’s four packages.
Next adventure, no instant pudding, so technically my “no-bake” dessert had to cook a little bit in order to firm up. It also didn’t contain an sugar, so I have to add that. No problem, into the sauce pan. Let me begin whipping that cream because I’ve got to fold it into the softened cream cheese and sugar mixture soon. Take a look at my kitchen after this “easy” “quick” and “convenient” experience. (And a reminder photo of my single rack dishwasher.) 😉
my messy kitchen
At the end of the day, did I accomplish it? Yes. Will I make it again? I’m not sure. A far better solution, I think, is to embrace the adventure, and have a dessert that’s already abundant where we are. Poland has some excellent desserts, so that will be my plan. Happy (no) baking!
banoffee and tiramisuberry tartnutella & banana crepes
We had the good fortune of traveling to Katowice for the weekend, with locals, which is the best way, because they had planned the weekend, which meant we really just needed to show up.
Katowice, Poland is definitely worth a trip. It experienced a coal mining boom during the industrial revolution, so naturally our first stop was the cute area of Nikiszowiec Historic Mining District.
This former workers’ housing estate for the miners of the Giesche mine was built in 1908-1918, and has some recently renovated shops and restaurants, among them Slaska Probibicja, where we sampled delicious traditional Silesian items like Śląski klasyk, a beef and sausage roulade with Silesian dumplings and red cabbage, and Golonko raz, pork knuckle baked in dark beer with panczkraut, a potato and sauerkraut dish. And if you’re like my son, and just get steak everywhere, they had that as well, all equally delicious.
Katowice is located in Upper Silesia, a region in what is today southwestern Poland, but during history has changed hands between Germany and Poland multiple times. In 1742, it was part of the Kingdom of Prussia; however, it became re-unified with Poland under the Polish Republic in 1918. Just before the second World War, the area of Katowice and surrounding was literally split down the middle; and then all of it became occupied by Germany during the war. I’ve probably spoken a bit about what happened to Poland’s borders after the war, but I’ll say it again. The eastern part (black) was carved off and given to the Soviets; and the western part was carved off from Germany and given to Poland (dark gray), essentially relocating thousands of people; which all in all is just crazy to think about. See these maps which show a good rendering.
The highlight of the weekend was touring an actual coal mine, Guido Coal Mine or Kopalni Guido, which I didn’t think I’d enjoy as much as I did. We took and triple decker elevator 320 meters underground to explore, with a guide, what remains. It was closed in 1960, and then re-opened as a test mine in 1967, testing new equipment called colliery machines. Fun fact: a canary in a coal mine was actually used in order to detect danger so that workers could get out. It was MUCH bigger down there than I could have imagined. We toured about 2 hours, rode in a little tram, saw some machines still operational, and at the end, there was its own little café right there in the mine.
Museum Slaski gave us a great history lesson. Had you heard World War II broke out in Westerplatte? In fact, I probably had written about that site earlier this year. But what we learned today is that the first casualty of the war was probably right here, in Silesia. A radio tower in Gliwice (the German side of the region) had been infiltrated by Nazi secret police, and staged to look like Polish fighters had tried to take down the tower, thus justifying a German invasion. One of the fighters, Franciszek Honiok, was later killed by the Nazis that day, and is known as the first casualty of the Second World War. Nearby, we discovered a nice area to walk, outside the International Congress Center (with a green grassy roof), a large convention center which opened in 2015. While it began as a mining town, Katowice has transformed itself into the 16th most economically powerful city in the EU, in terms of GDP, now home to industries like professional services and healthcare. Oh, and well, since we were driving right by it, we managed a stop in Jasna Gora, to see the famous Madonna of Czestochowa, known as the black Madonna, which is a pilgrimage site for Roman Catholics around the world. It was a full and enjoyable weekend!
My new-ish travel blog post 